Agios Ioannis Chapel | |  |
The path to the Panagia passes by the cemetery and its chapel. This is the last place where you'll find shade, and there's still a long way to go to the church. |
Dounavi Square | |  |
The largest square in Chora borders the Kastro, the medieval part of the village. In the centre of the square, a low wall demarcates an area where you will see several underground cisterns. Very common on Folegandros, these cisterns for collecting rainwater are a reminder that the island has no rivers or springs. Remember this before you book a hotel with a swimming pool! |
Gate to Kastro | |  |
At the north-east corner of Dounavi Square is the main gateway to the Kastro, the medieval part of Chora. While the rest of the village dates back to the 17th century, passing through this gate takes you right back to the 13th century. |
In the Kastro | |  |
The Kastro is the ancient fortified enclosure of Chora, a vestige of the 13th century, when the Aegean Sea was infested with pirates and the inhabitants of the Cycladic islands built their villages high up, invisible or almost invisible from the sea. |
Kato Roua (1) | |  |
Kato Roua means "the lower street" or "the street below". The Kastro has just these two parallel streets, lined with adjoining houses leaning against the wall and facing the street. Apparently, despite its small size, the fortified enclosure could accommodate almost 200 families. |
Kato Roua (2) | |  |
Kato Roua continues westwards towards the Panagia Pantanassa church perched on the edge of the cliff. On the right, an arched passageway leads up to Piso Roua, the second street in the Kastro. On the left, a short alleyway leads to the terrace of Café I Lotzia, the ideal place for an aperitif. |
Kato Roua (3) | |  |
Folegandros is not the only island in the Cyclades where you can discover such a fortified village dating back to the Middle Ages. In the course of our travels, we have visited those of Antiparos and Sifnos (aptly named Kastro), but this one stands out for its good state of renovation, which gives it a great deal of charm. |
Kontarini Square | |  |
In summer, all these shady squares are said to be buzzing with activity, and no wonder. Chora offers so many friendly spots that visitors can't help but flock everywhere. Just before the high season, on the other hand, you'll have a great time wandering around the village, which you'll almost have to yourself! |
Kontarini Street | |  |
To the east of Kontarini Square, the street of the same name climbs up to Pounta Square, which offers a breathtaking view of the cliff. From this square, the street climbs towards the Panagia tis Folegandrou church perched on its rock. |
Main Road (1) | |  |
There are only two petrol stations on Folegandros. The first is located on the road leading up from Karavostasis harbour, 400 metres from the entrance to Chora. The second is located here and is a good landmark for finding one of the alleys leading to the village, which is closed to cars. Pass to the right of the petrol station, walk past the car rental company and you will arrive at the alley. |
Main Road (2) | |  |
After passing between the only winery in Folegandros (Paliomilos Winery) and a 4-star hotel whose huge swimming pool seems totally indecent on an island with no water, we leave the main road here to continue straight on to the main access street to the village. |
Main Road (3) | |  |
Our virtual stroll ends a little further along the road leading to the north of the island, to show you yet another magnificent view of Chora. Behind us, a street closed to traffic leads directly to the centre of the village. |
Main Road (4) | |  |
Our virtual stroll ends here, with a magnificent view of Chora perched on its rock. Further on, the main road passes through Ano Meria (where we didn't shoot any views) and ends at the chapel of Chrysopigi, at the very end of the island. |
Main Street (1) | |  |
Our view here is towards the centre of the village. On our right, the small street leads to the main road, the Paliomilos Winery and the petrol station. Behind us, the main street joins the main road a little further up, in the direction of Ano Meria. |
Main Street (2) | |  |
Many restaurants are clustered around the small squares in the centre of the village, but as you stroll along this pretty street you'll also come across a few, some of which open early in the season. |
Main Street (3) | |  |
The street splits in two... which way to go? It doesn't matter - each branch leads to the centre of the village, ending up between Maraki Square and Piatsa Square. If we go to the right, we'll pass through the most rock'n'roll alleyway in Chora. |
Main Street (4) | |  |
This is Chora's most rock'n'roll alleyway, lined with round tables bearing the effigies of the biggest names on Planet Rock. The choice is vast, so guess which table we sat down at for a local beer? |
Main Street (5) | |  |
The main street into the village leads to this small square, where you'll find bars, shops and a small supermarket. The whole centre of Chora is dotted with shady squares lined with numerous restaurants, so you'll be spoilt for choice! |
Maraki Square | |  |
A plaque on the wall reads "Antimatsa Square", but on a map of the village it's Maraki Square. Who's right? It doesn't really matter. The main thing is that the square is pretty, the restaurant is good and, if you go around its terrace, you'll find a little street that leads to a superb viewpoint. |
Panagia Esplanade | |  |
Curiously, the large esplanade in front of the church appears to be abandoned. There are no benches to sit on and lose oneself in contemplation, no pretty gardens, just a large, dry space of bare ground. But the view alone is worth the effort of the long climb. |
Panagia Pantanassa Viewpoint | |  |
Offering magnificent views from its forecourt, the church was built by a Cretan immigrant at the end of the 17th century, probably as thanksgiving for being welcomed on Folegandros. Having passed from one master to another over the ages, the island was at times almost deserted, and it seems to have been repopulated by Cretans in the 16th century. |
Panagia tis Folegandrou | |  |
The largest church in Folegandros was probably built on the site of an ancient temple, some elements of which were incorporated into the building, but the date of its construction remains unknown. It was renovated in 1687 but took on its current form between 1816 and 1821. Please note: it is only open from 6pm, although the esplanade is always accessible. |
Passage to Kato Roua | |  |
Piso Roua is not the most interesting part of the Folegandros Kastro. At the very end of the street, this vaulted passageway leads to Kato Roua, which has been much better renovated. |
Piatsa Square | |  |
As on other Cycladic islands, the tourist season starts in May on Folegandros and if you go too early you'll have a hard time finding restaurants that are open. The one you see here on the left, To Sik ('The Chic'), opened in the first days of May during our stay in 2025. We ate there several times (consider this a recommendation). |
Piso Roua | |  |
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Pounta Square | |  |
It's from this little square that you get the most impressive bird's-eye view. That's when you realise that Chora is actually perched on the edge of a cliff, 200m above the sea. Beware of vertigo! For even more panoramic views, take the street up to the right of the square and climb up to the Panagia tis Folegandrou church. |
Shortcut to village center (1) | |  |
This path leading to the centre of the village is not clearly signposted. Beyond this point, where there are hoops in the ground blocking the way to cars, go to the left and simply follow the path - you won't get lost. |
Shortcut to village center (2) | |  |
The road leads past a bakery, then past this restaurant. We ate very well there and it was one of the few restaurants open when we arrived in early May 2025. A little way from the centre of the village, so probably quieter than the others at the height of the summer season. |
Shortcut to village center (3) | |  |
The only pharmacy on the island is in this alleyway, close to the twin churches of Agia Barbara and Agios Athanasios. This panorama will give you an idea of where it is, but we hope you won't need it during your stay! |
Shortcut to village center (4) | |  |
We've now reached the centre of the village and the shady squares lined with beautiful churches that make it so charming. Which way to go? It doesn't really matter. Just set off and discover - you won't regret the stroll! |
Stairway to Lotzia and Kastro | |  |
Just opposite the ATMs, these few steps lead up to I Lotzia ("The Loggia"), a friendly café owned by Manthos the cat. To the side of the café, a passageway leads directly into the heart of the Kastro. |
Trail to Our Lady of Folegandros (1) | |  |
Seen from the village, the climb up to Panagia looks very steep, but in fact the path is gently sloping and presents no difficulties whatsoever. Make sure you bring a hat and a bottle of water, though, as the sun is beating down hard! |
Trail to Our Lady of Folegandros (2) | |  |
The path to Panagia is safe, although it sometimes skims the edge of the cliff. It offers breathtaking views of the village of Chora perched 200m above sea level. An ideal place to watch the sun set, but be careful not to come down on a moonless night! |
Viewpoint to west | |  |
Walking around Chora, you don't really realise that you're standing on the edge of a vertiginous cliff. From Maraki Square, an alleyway leads here, where you're sure to snap some impressive photos. |